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Malta

Malta: Holidays in History
By Roy Watts
Images by Roy Watts and the Malta Tourism Authority



Malta has been blessed with a sublime climate, interesting topography and crystal waters. It has also been cursed with a strategic significance that has subjected it to a history of ongoing conflict as various nations have battled to colonise it throughout the ages. All of this has combined to make the Maltese Archipelago a really fascinating destination today.


The Maltese Islands are a unique cocktail of genes and architecture forged by a most dramatic history. It stretches back 5611 years to the carbon dated megalithic Ggantija Temples on the Island of Gozo, built by an advanced civilisation that crossed from Sicily on a land bridge that no longer exists. These are the oldest structures in the world, and were built 1,400 years before the Pyramids. The Phoenicians started the long chain of conflict and occupation that included periods of dominion by Carthaginians, the Romans, a stretch of Byzantine rule and an ongoing tussle with the Vandals and Goths. This was followed by an Arab dominance that was ended by a Norman conquest in 1090. The Maltese Archipelago was ceded to the Knights of St John by Charles V of Spain, and they went on to become the Island’s greatest benefactors. They were conquered by Napoleon in 1798, and he was defeated in turn two years later when most of the French fleet was sunk by Admiral Nelson in the battle of Alexandria on Egypt’s shoreline. This brought Malta under a lengthy period of English rule that ended with the granting of independence in 1964.
Britain and Malta were close allies during the Second World War, and they were subjected to the most vicious onslaught, as the Islands were a thorn in Rommel’s supply route for his North African campaign. More bombs reigned down on this tiny enclave than any other arena during the entire war. In April 1942 King George V1 awarded the George Cross to the entire population of the Maltese Islands in honour of their heroism and bravery - the only time in history that such recognition has been bestowed.
Tucked away at the crossroads of Africa and Europe, the Maltese Archipelago lies 93 kilometers south of Sicily, and 288 north of the Tunisian/Libyan coastline. Blessed with a sublime climate influenced by fairly close proximity to the Sahara Desert, it features hot dry summers, warm autumns and short cool winters.
Malta is extremely popular with legions of tourists from Europe, but is comparatively unknown to most South Africans. It is a very stable and productive country, with a strong sense of history as reflected by its ancient buildings - particularly in Valetta, the Capital. They were built across the wide span of the Knights reign from 1530 to 1798, and this is one of the highlights on the tourist beat, along with Mdina - the ‘Silent City’. The latter was a colonial settlement of Imperial Rome, and thereafter the first Capital City of the Knights before the seat of government moved to Valetta. In Roman times it was here that the Apostle Paul was kept when he was washed ashore from a shipwreck on the island in 60AD. He was later deported to Rome, where he was executed.
Malta’s greatest natural resource is a vast deposit of a distinctive butter coloured limestone that has been used for building throughout the past, and is the medium still in use today. This eliminates the need for exterior paint and gives structures throughout the islands a unique patina. When added to the craftsmanship of the skilled stone masons through the ages, there is a commanding ambiance that overwhelms the senses. Far from being a collection of historical buildings, Mdina is a fully functioning village with over 300 residents who are the only people allowed vehicular access. Occasionally, whilst wandering along its flag stoned streets, a horse and buggy will clip clop past adding to the timeless charm.
For vacationers there are great resorts, plenty of bays, and glorious beaches along the 196 kilometer coastline. The crystal clear water is ideal for swimming, and scuba diving is especially popular amongst the many wrecks lying quite close to the shore. Those seeking night life will head for the party district of Paceville, where many bars, clubs and restaurants rock until the wee hours. And shopaholics head for the Point, Malta’s newest and biggest retail complex that is linked to the prestigious Tigne point development. There are also many Al Fresco eateries, as the wonderful climate promotes an intimate association with the many piazzas and waterfronts of the Maltese Islands.
On hand to cater for the huge influx of tourists is a large network of very fine hotels ranging from high end luxury to budget, all of which compare favourably with their European counterparts in terms of price and value. I was privileged to stay in two really superb five star establishments. The Phoenicia is Malta’s imposing Grande Dame situated conveniently at the entrance to Valletta in 7 acres of luxuriant garden. It is themed along attractive Art Deco lines and has a beautiful pool complex tucked away amongst the trees, plants and shrubs.
In fashionable Sliema I spent a night in the stylishly modern Palace Hotel, situated 500 metres from a popular beach. The main features were a generous balcony with a breathtaking vista, and a top floor centered round a rim-flow pool that gave the illusion of pouring onto the street below. This area was completely devoted to leisure activities such as a bar, gymnasium, spa and a large bank of sun loungers.
A magnificent travel bookmark of the Maltese Archipelago is the satellite island of Gozo in the north. It is accessed by a ferry that leaves every 45 minutes, and transports people and cars across the 6 kilometer channel in half an hour. A place of great enchantment, it is a rural alternative to bustle busy Malta. Measuring only 14 kilometers in length, 7 in width, and 67 squares in area, it has a population of 31,000 of whom 6,500 live in Victoria the capital. It has a truly spectacular coastline featuring craggy cliffs, seductive coves, blue grottos and glorious beaches where turquoise waves break onto brilliant orange-red sands.
For those keen on relics from the past, Gozo’s history is built into many of its buildings, most notably The Citadel - a small fortified city in the heart of Victoria that dates back to the Bronze Age around 1500BC. Among many natural attractions, the Azure Window rises from the sea to form a giant natural rock arch framing a distant cliff, and a visit to the megalithic Ggantija Temples will get one wondering about the mystifying origins of this compelling nation.

Information
Images: Roy Watts and Malta Tourism Authority: www.visitmalta.com 
Phoenicia Hotel: http://www.phoeniciamalta.com 
Palace Hotel: http://www.thepalacesliemahotel.com
Guide: Darrell Azzopardi dazman@onvol.net 
Speedboat charters: Kevin Vella at Galaxy Charters http://www.galaxy-charters.com


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