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BANGKOK

Barging through Bangkok
By Roy Watts



A century ago, they conveyed rice across the country. After a major refit and a face lift, these barges now transport pampered tourists along Thailand’s main watercourse.

The massive Chao Phraya River, one of Asia’s great waterways, cuts a huge swathe through Bangkok on its way to the Gulf. Also known as the River of Kings, it adds an extra dimension to the city’s transportation options with perpetual traffic in the form of water taxis, longtail boats, hotel shuttles and sightseeing launches. They ply up and down accompanied by a very diverse variety of commercial craft using the river as a more efficient means of delivery than the over-extended road alternative. The embarkation point is the Central Pier conveniently situated next to the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station, giving commuters the opportunity of extending their range to include destinations up river that are out of reach for the current transit systems. The magnificent Grand Palace is just one that springs to mind.
Tucked away upstream is the Anantara Riverside Resort and Spa, an Asian styled tropical paradise cleverly landscaped in an 11 acre site. It has considerable river frontage and its own jetty from which two shuttles cross each other continuously connecting guests free of charge with the city centre every 20 minutes. Most notably, its large quay is also the base for a fleet of converted teak rice barges operated by Manohra Luxury Cruises. These ancient boats provide a novel way to explore Thailand.
With origins stretching back a hundred years, the hulls have been lavishly converted into 5 star luxury river cruisers, one of which has been dubbed ‘The Orient Express of the River’. This particular boat, the Manohra Song, has four air conditioned staterooms with queen sized beds and en suite bathrooms. There is also a generous lounge and dining area with a bar and a sun deck. Materials that dominate the interior design include warm teak and mahogany, while the custom made furniture is covered in colourful Thai silks, cottons and oriental rugs. From this jetty, guests set out in these exquisite boats to explore the enigmatic Chao Phraya River that stretches north for 372 kilometres, taking in historically significant towns that are densely populated specifically because of their access to the river. These trips could be for a night or several days, the most popular being a cruise 100 kilometres upstream to the ancient fortified city of Ayutthaya. This was the old capital from which the kings of earlier times ruled Siam. It was also the place where European sailing ships met up with Chinese junks for the trading of silks, spices and exotic timbers.
One of the antique hulls has been converted into a stately restaurant that takes off every night to provide Anantara guests with a lavish epicurean adventure in a spectacular setting. Every morning Mondays to Fridays, this vessel also sets forth from 8am until noon for a unique Thai cookery class. After meeting the chef and crew, guests cruise to a jetty near a local market where fresh produce is taken on board. The boat then weaves its way along the busy river while food is prepared. This is accompanied by an explanation of the ingredients and methods used to produce a five course Thai meal. This gourmet repast is then eaten before an unforgettable backdrop that only a river fit for a king could provide.
The weather needs to be considered when taking to the river and the best time to go is between November and January, when skies are clear and the humidity low. From February onwards tropical conditions begin to take over as temperatures and humidity increase progressively until May when the monsoon winds bring torrential rain. Rain tips down until the end of July, after which good sailing conditions return.

INFORMATION
• Roy Watts travelled to Thailand courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand and Flight Centre: www.flightcentre.co.za.
• The flight was on Thai Airlines who earlier this year introduced a direct connection to Bangkok thus eliminating the need for the bothersome dog leg routes of yore. http://www.thaiairways.co.za/ 
• Anantara Riverside Resort and Spa: http://bangkok-riverside.anantara.com/
• Manohra Rice Barge Cruises: www.manohracruises.com


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